We passed through Sioux City, and several other towns and finally reached Yankton. Then began a busy time making preparations for the overland trail to Fort Pierre. We bought oxen and a wagon; also a cow, to supply us with milk on the way.
We stayed a short time at Yankton and then proceeded on our way with only a trail to guide us over the open prairie. We usually travelled about 18 miles each day, but if we happened to come across water, we generally stayed a day longer, doing our baking and washing. We had a dutch oven, which baked bread beautifully when it was covered with hot cinders and the fire raked away. We were always careful to put our fires out before we began our journey again.
We had been travelling for over a week when one day we sighted some Indian teepees, about half a mile away near some bushes. We kept on the trail, but on the watch to see what they intended to do. Presently an Indian came towards us and stood on the trail a short distance ahead of us. He put up his hand, then stooped down and took a handful of soil. He patted the soil, then patted himself, as much as to say that the land was his and he motioned us to go back. My brother pointed to the trail ahead and started up the oxen, saying to the Indian 'Washtia' meaning good. At that the Indian turned and went slowly back to his camp. I think he was dressed for the occasion as he wore an evening coat, with some scalps hanging from his waist and a strip of red flannel coming from under his coat, which bobbed along the grass when he walked. We could not help laughing, although we kept a sharp lookout to see if they meant to attack us, but nothing happened. We did not sleep very much that night.
As it turned out, the Indians had chosen a camping place so to be near the Government Reservation Stores and it was a bit of bluff on their part.
After that we found a scarcity of water, as it was a very dry season. Once we came across a settler's house, where they had been gathering wild plums that grew in the bluffs near the Missouri river. They were obliged to draw their drinking water in barrels a long distance and they caught rain water for other uses. They were very kind people and gave us drinking water, also a basket of plums. These were very acceptable.
We resumed our journey and in the afternoon of the second day we saw much rough country. Here the trail divided and we had to trust to our own judgement which one to take. We chose the one to the left which so nearly proved our undoing. After travelling about a mile, the trail became very rough indeed and more difficult to travel. On gaining the top of a high ridge, there before us was the wide Missouri river. We decided to go on as we had come so far. When we had gone down the rather steep grade, the trail suddenly turned round a high cliff and at the edge the trail was not much wider than our wagon, with the river straight down at one side, and the cliff on the other. It seemed this was an old disused trail and was only used by horsemen.
However, there was no turning back, so Mother and I got out of the wagon. Taking the two children we walked round the cliff and up the very steep ascent, to the top of the ridge on the other side. I shall never forget the view from the top of that ridge, out across the wide Missouri river.
In the meantime, my husband and brother had got the oxen and wagon safely round the cliff and were facing the slope above, where we were anxiously waiting. My brother took the precaution of selecting two large stones, in case the wagon wheels had to be blocked, as we had no brake.
My husband having previously taken the cow to the top, then urged the oxen up the grade. They had not got more than a few yards before they came to a standstill and my brother immediately blocked the back wheels of the wagon with the large stones. This proved a success, if not for that bit of forethought nothing could have prevented the oxen and wagon going backwards and finally plunging into the river below, perhaps causing my husband and brother to lose their lives as well. However, a great deal of patience had to be exercised and finally, after four attempts repeated in the same way, the wagon was safely landed on the top of the ridge and taken a little way down the opposite side to where the trail ran down a gentle slope. Here we camped as we all felt the need for a rest.
Noticing green grass growing among some rocks not far from the trail, we found a spring of good water, that trickled slowly into little shallow pools among the grass. We were very pleased indeed, here was plenty of drinking water for ourselves with good grass and water for our animals.
We soon had our kettle boiling and prepared a good meal and having milked the cow, gave the children plenty of fresh milk to drink. We found the milk very useful on our long journey.
Next morning we continued on our way, following the trail along a small valley, with bluffs and some trees on either side. On reaching the opposite side of the woods, we were surprised to see open prairie and in the distance Government Reservation Buildings, the trail apparently leading to them. We could also see various Indian teepees and Indians coming over the prairie. It happened to be the day for the monthly distribution of supplies, clothing etc. to the head of each Indian family.
We made enquiries from the agent and found we were on the right trail for Fort Pierre, but he told us we had not realised the danger we had passed through in taking that trail by the Missouri river, as the cliff was gradually crumbling away.
However, we began our journey once more and after a time there appeared one or two log houses, with more bluffs and trees and to our delight we found plenty of wild plums. You may guess we soon had a good supply to eat on the way.
As we went further along, the trail became clearer, more people having passed that way and we were glad that we were nearing a more settled part. Here and there little farming was being done and presently again, the Missouri river appeared. A little further along we had to cross the river in the ferry Jim Leighton. Safely over we followed the trail over the prairie, which eventually brought us to the Cheyenne river. Here there was no ferry or bridge, only a shallow crossing, the bottom being very rough. The river was a quarter of a mile wide and in some places two feet deep. After a lot of bumping and many stops to rest the oxen, we were across. We made camp for a day or two here.
We were now fifty miles from the Black Hills. The hills looked black in the distance, due to the Fir trees that grow densely on the sides of them. There are various creeks flowing down from the hills, Box, Elder, Rapid and Elk Creek. Resuming our journey, we found some farming being done, especially near the creeks, the farmers keeping horses, cattle and poultry, so we were able to buy butter, eggs and vegetables. It was very nice to meet more people and very interesting.
In a few days time we were near Elk Creek, thirty miles from the Black Hills. Rapid City, formerly called 'Gate City' is situated at the foot of the hills, where great cliffs tower up on either side of a creek and roadway, bordered by tall fir trees.
The City has developed rapidly, as in those days there were no railways, supplies being taken by horses, mules and oxen from Fort Pierre and Yankton.
As it was getting late in the Year, we stayed near Elk Creek for the Winter. It was very cold and a good deal of snow had fallen. We were very glad when the Springtime came and we were able to move over to the opposite side of the creek. Here was good farming and we located there, being able to grow good vegetables and raise poultry the first year.
A few farmers were settled near and more people began to move in. We had our post delivered at a neighbour's house for a time by the Mailman, but later a man came near Elk Creek and opened a shop. He also received the mail and the shop was called 'Viewfield'.
We used to have great celebration on the Fourth of July, consisting of racing, games and other sports and a fine spread out under the trees on roughly made tables. Each family took a basket of provisions and setting out a portion of the table, invited their friends to share it with them. All the people were very sociable and enjoyed themselves very much.
A school house was built and the teacher and children used to ride to school on their ponies, tethering the ponies out on the prairie during school hours. In the meantime a railway had been constructed to Rapid City from the Eastern States, which made the journey overland not necessary.
Later on came news of an Indian uprising about forty miles from Rapid City, in the 'Bad Lands'. The Indians were out killing the settlers' stock and burning their homes. The settlers took their families to Rapid City; we also moved to Rapid City and rented a house there, my brother staying on the ranch to look after things. I remember seeing the soldiers from the East coming in by train, to the small siding about a quarter of a mile from our house. They brought their horses with them and next day began their march into the Indian country. My husband took a wagon load of supplies to the soldiers' camp, which was about thirty miles away and our little son aged ten years went with him. They saw by the side of the trail many dead cattle. The Indians had killed them and carried a portion of the meat away with them for food, in their hurry to get to their retreat in the 'Bad Lands'.
It was nearly dusk when my husband reached a stream on the opposite side of which the soldiers were camped. The Captain told him to come across, as it was not safe where they were and expressed surprise to learn how far they had come without meeting Indians, as there had been a battle in the vicinity a short time before, that was afterwards known as the 'Battle of Wounded Knee'. Next day my husband began the homeward journey, escorted by soldiers part of the way.
It was some time before peace was restored in that part, but at last the remaining Indians were returned to their reservations and the settlers began to return to their ranches.
We used to have some very heavy hail storms and I remember one especially. It came up very suddenly with a strong wind. What first attracted my attention was to see some tents being carried up in the air by the very high wind and the people running for what shelter they could find. In a few moments the storm was upon us; it came on the front of the house and very soon twenty four panes of glass, including the window sash were all broken by the huge hailstones, while across the way at a School of Mines, one hundred and twenty panes of glass were broken.
I saw a horse which was grazing nearby, struck on the top of its head by a large hailstone, and it fell down stunned. My little son had fortunately just got in the house and we all stayed in the kitchen till the storm was over. We could hear the water that was coming under the door, as it rushed down the cellar steps. We were in darkness as the mud had splashed the windows over at the back where they were not broken.
It took us some time to clear up the broken glass, amongst which we found quite large hailstones melting away. One large hailstone had gone through the seat of a cane chair and many other things were spoilt.
I believe Rapid City is a large place now, surrounded by cultivated farms with good houses, churches and schools. I trust those early memories may be of interest to those who have not visited that Country and have not travelled the overland trail. To us it was a very interesting and a pleasant journey in many ways.
More of my family history in the 1870s and 80s